Handloom Research And Development Project

Abstract:

This research delves into the difficulties encountered by female handloom weavers in Sualkuchi, Assam, with a particular emphasis on financial struggles, health-related issues, and the need for skill development. Through a survey of 274 weavers, the study revealed significant challenges such as musculoskeletal disorders, stress caused by financial instability, and a lack of necessary skills. To address these issues, the study proposed specific interventions, including a Health Module aimed at improving both physical and mental health and a Skill Development Module focused on enhancing digital marketing skills.

The research also suggests incorporating Muga silk into the One District One Product (ODOP) initiative to ensure long-term financial security for the weavers. Additionally, integrating the SEWA model is recommended to empower weavers by helping them manage their financial and health challenges more effectively, while also advancing their skills through community-based learning and cooperative work settings. The study highlights the importance of adopting comprehensive strategies to enhance the livelihoods of the weavers and ensure the sustainability of the handloom sector.

Introduction:

Millions of individuals are integral to preserving India's cultural heritage, with 60% of them working within the handloom sector. Assam, though less prominent on the national stage, is notable for its rich tradition of hand-woven textiles. The handloom industry, particularly in Sualkuchi, has been a cornerstone of the region's cultural and economic fabric for centuries. The history of Muga silk is closely linked to the Ahom dynasty's patronage, which significantly contributed to its growth. Under the Ahoms, Muga silk became a major export, with kings and queens actively participating in its production and display. Figures like Momai Tamuli Barbarua, a prominent minister under Ahom King Pratap Sinha (1603-1641 CE), played a crucial role in promoting the craft by mandating spinning and weaving, embedding silk culture deeply within Assamese society. However, this thriving industry faced challenges during the British era, including reduced land for Muga cultivation and competition from cheaper, factory-produced silk.

In Assam today, weaving is pursued at various levels. For some, it remains a side activity within family-run operations, while independent weavers in Muga-growing areas primarily produce enough for personal use. Part-time weavers often sell excess products, entering the commercial market, while full-time weavers, working for profit, are employed by factories and cooperatives in Sualkuchi often referred to as "The Manchester of the East" due to its silk production. Despite the industry's historical and cultural importance, the well-being of the predominantly female weavers has often been overlooked.

This study was conducted to explore and address the critical challenges faced by these weavers, focusing particularly on financial difficulties, physical health issues, and stress management. Through a comprehensive survey and analysis, the research aimed to uncover the extent of these challenges and propose actionable interventions to improve both the mental and physical well-being of the weavers, while also enhancing their skill sets in an evolving economic landscape.

The findings underscore the dual necessity of addressing health and skill development for the weavers in Sualkuchi. Without targeted interventions, the physical and mental burdens these weavers face could further exacerbate their already precarious financial situation.

The study's methodology involved a detailed survey of 400 weavers, with 274 complete responses analysed. The survey included 72 questions, divided into sections such as Demographic Data, Standardised Stress Assessment Scales, Causes of Stress, Awareness of Mental Health, Body Pain, and Skill Development. The data collected provided significant insights into the daily struggles of the weavers, revealing widespread issues such as musculoskeletal disorders, high levels of stress related to financial instability, and a limited awareness of mental health resources.

In addition to health concerns, the study identified a significant gap in skill development, especially in areas essential for economic empowerment like digital marketing and communication. These findings highlight the need for a comprehensive approach to improving the weavers' lives one that addresses immediate health concerns while equipping them with the necessary skills to thrive in an increasingly digital economy.

To respond to these challenges, the research team developed several targeted interventions. These include a Health Module incorporating a Quick Exposure Check (QEC) to assess musculoskeletal risks and a Mental Health Kit Handbook designed to provide stress management tools and resources. Additionally, a Skill Development Module was created to teach digital marketing basics, empowering weavers to enhance their business practices.

The study advocates for the inclusion of Muga silk in the One District One Product (ODOP) initiative, a government-led program designed to promote unique products from each district across India. By incorporating Muga silk into this initiative, long-term financial stability for the weavers could be secured through increased demand and enhanced market visibility. This inclusion would help elevate the status of Muga silk on both national and international platforms, fostering sustained economic growth for the region's handloom sector.

Additionally, the study suggests integrating the Self-Employed Women's Association (SEWA) model to empower weavers through community-based approaches. The SEWA model emphasises cooperative work environments and community-based learning, enabling weavers to effectively manage financial and health challenges while also advancing their skills. Together, these strategies would not only bolster the economic prospects of the weavers but also ensure the sustainability of Assam's handloom industry.

This research serves as a foundational step towards sustainable interventions designed to uplift the weavers of Sualkuchi. By integrating health and skill development strategies with initiatives like ODOP and empowerment models such as SEWA, the study lays the groundwork for future efforts to improve the quality of life for this vital yet vulnerable community, ensuring the sustainability of the handloom industry in Assam.

Literature Review:

Singha R et al. (2020) did research on the historical significance of Muga silk production by Assam's royal families, particularly during the Koch Dynasty, when it became a key trade item with regions like Bengal and Tibet. Weaving is deeply embedded in Assamese culture, with skills traditionally passed down to young girls. In Sualkuchi, where 6,872 female weavers work, there is growing concern about the decline of these traditional skills, especially as age hampers efficiency.

While automated machines offer a way to boost productivity, they also threaten the traditional handloom industry by introducing cheaper, machine-made garments. To protect the weavers' livelihoods, Singha suggests a sustainable model that combines modern techniques with traditional practices.

The unique properties of Assam's fabrics, such as the antibacterial and UV-absorbing qualities of Muga silk and the hypoallergenic nature of Pat silk, hold significant market potential. Singha (2020) advocates for greater promotion of these qualities to increase consumer demand and also highlights the region's potential for producing castor oil, further supporting the silk industry.

Tiwari S. et al. (2023) conducted a study to analyse the sustainable competitive advantages of Assam silk products, which, despite their global recognition, are facing intense competition from various competitors. The study aimed to identify these advantages from both buyers' and sellers' perspectives to develop defensive strategies for preserving the industry. Data were gathered from 200 respondents, including sellers and buyers, using the standardised Buyers' and Sellers' Agreement Scale (BSAS). The analysis was performed using one-sample and independent-sample t-tests. The results revealed that Assam silk products possess several sustainable competitive advantages, such as high quality, geographical indications, unique designs, durability, strong customer loyalty, a large customer base, timely delivery, product differentiation, uniqueness, and innovation. This study is notable for being the first to identify these specific competitive advantages in the Assam silk industry, which plays a significant role on the global stage. The insights from this research are expected to aid the Assam silk industry in developing strategies to address challenges and ensure long-term growth and sustainability.

Bharali et al. (2020) did research the profound impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Assam silk industry, focusing on the challenges faced by various stakeholders, including weavers, manufacturers, and suppliers of raw and finished silk products. Through a qualitative study involving in-depth interviews and a semi-structured questionnaire, the research highlighted that the pandemic severely disrupted production, supply chains, and market demand, leaving all stakeholders significantly affected. The study also identified potential strategies for reviving the industry, providing a framework for policymakers and stakeholders to develop supportive policies and effective strategies. Bharali and Akoijam's research (2020) is intended to guide efforts to restore the Assam silk industry's vitality and ensure its long-term sustainability in the post-pandemic.

Baishya M. (2016) conducted a study in Sualkuchi, Kamrup (R), Assam, focusing on the educational and vocational status of 100 women weavers. Using a purposive sampling technique and a self-constructed questionnaire, Baishya aimed to assess both the educational levels and the professional challenges faced by these women. The study revealed that the educational and vocational status of the women weavers in Sualkuchi is generally unsatisfactory. The weavers face significant challenges, particularly regarding inadequate accommodation, heavy workloads, and an unfair payment system. Additionally, the majority of these weavers come from poor socio-economic backgrounds and are compelled to engage in weaving as a necessity rather than by choice. Based on these findings, Baishya (2016) suggested measures to improve both the educational opportunities and professional development of women weavers, aiming to enhance their overall Status and working conditions.

Choobineh et al. (2006) conducted a comprehensive study to assess the prevalence of MSD symptoms, identify key factors contributing to these disorders, and develop ergonomic guidelines for weaving workstation design. The study was carried out in two phases. In the first phase, a survey of 1,439 weavers across nine Iranian provinces revealed a high incidence of MSD symptoms, with prevalence rates significantly higher than those in the general Iranian population. The findings pointed to poor workstation design as a major contributor to these issues. In response, the second phase focused on the development and testing of an adjustable workstation. Laboratory experiments evaluated nine different workstation configurations, concluding that optimal posture and comfort were achieved when the weaving height was set 20 cm above the elbow and a high, forward-sloping seat was used. The study culminated in the formulation of ergonomic guidelines that include adjustable looms, proper legroom, and specific seating adjustments, all of which are expected to reduce the prevalence of MSDs among weavers by improving their working posture and reducing postural stress.

Baishya D (2019) explored the critical role of the handloom industry in sustaining the indigenous communities of Northeast India, particularly in Assam, where weaving has traditionally been passed down from mother to daughter in many households. Despite this rich heritage, weaving is now on the verge of extinction in many areas, with only a few regions continuing to embrace it as part of daily life. The study highlighted that, with improved connectivity between urban and rural areas and a growing demand for traditional attire, weaving remains a viable source of income for those who continue to practise this age-old skill. However, a lack of financial resources has hindered the ability of these weavers to improve the quality and increase the supply of handwoven fabrics in Assam.

Bortamuly A. and Goswami K. (2012) explored the impact of increased competition in the Indian handloom industry on the wage structure of women workers, who mainly serve as weavers, reelers, and helpers. Using data from 300 respondents across 13 districts in Assam, the study analysed wage differentials from a gender perspective. The results showed no gender-based wage discrimination among contractual workers, but discrimination was evident among monthly-rated workers. Worker productivity significantly influenced wages, while education and experience did not. The study suggests the need for government action to address gender wage disparities among monthly-rated workers and to support contractual workers in the industry. She proposed that microfinance could be a powerful tool in revitalising and advancing the handloom industry in Assam, particularly in the lower Brahmaputra valley. The research utilised Exploratory Factor Analysis to identify key factors that contribute to the socio-economic conditions of women weavers. Descriptive statistics were employed to assess the impact of microfinance on the handloom industry and its role in enhancing the socio-economic status of the weavers. The findings indicated that women weavers who benefited from microfinance programs experienced significant socio-economic empowerment, demonstrating the effectiveness of microfinance in improving both the industry and the lives of those who depend on it.

Kalita R. (2019) investigated the involvement of women in the weaving industry in Assam, India, and its relationship with their socio-economic conditions. The study highlights that Assam has the highest proportion of weavers in India, with 99% of them being women. Weaving in Assam is predominantly a women's activity, cutting across caste and community lines. However, the study also points out that the average number of working days per year for adult handloom weavers in Assam is significantly lower than in other Indian states. Through a primary survey of 166 women weavers, a correlation matrix was constructed to explore the impact of socio-economic factors on their involvement in weaving. The analysis revealed that higher income and education levels are positively correlated with increased involvement in weaving, suggesting that socio-economic characteristics play a crucial role in sustaining women's participation in this traditional industry.

Methodology:

The present study focused on the welfare of the handloom weavers of Sualkuchi, Assam. Based on the preliminary study, it was highlighted that the major problem areas of the weavers included financial difficulty, body pain and stress management. A study was then devised to further analyse the extent of problems in the area. A survey was constructed containing 72 questions and was divided into 6 subsections namely Demographic Data, Standardised Stress Assessment Scales, Causes of Stress, Awareness of Mental Health, Body Pain and Skill Development. It was then conducted on a total of 400 weavers from Sualkuchi, Assam by field administrators.

After removal of missing responses, a total data of 274 responses was analysed. The analysis was conducted using the software Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS). Once analysis tables of the coded data were created, they were decoded and interpreted by the team. The interpretation pointed towards a need for skill development and health based interventions. The following sections provide a description of the study.

Data Analysis and Interpretation:

For the purpose of this study, a survey containing 72 questions divided into 6 subsections namely Demographic Data, Standardised Stress Assessment Scales, Causes of Stress, Awareness of Mental Health, Body Pain and Skill Development, was conducted on a total of 400 weavers from Sualkuchi, Assam. Within these subsections, some had further sections to map the particular variable comprehensively. There were 4 sections in the Stress Assessment Scale measuring Work-related, family-related, financial and social isolation related stress levels respectively; The Awareness of Mental Health also contained 4 sections pertaining to the workers' awareness, stigma, access to healthcare and preferred ways of receiving information about mental health. The last section dealing with Skill Development of the weavers included 7 sections mapping out various skills like communication, teamwork, time management, marketing, adaptability, decision-making and financial literacy.

Once the survey conduction was done, data was seen and missing responses were found in 126 of the responses and thus had to be removed from the final analysis leaving the final number as 274.

Discussion was conducted to decide the extent of quantitative analysis, and percentage, frequency, measures of central tendency and variability were finalised. The tool used for analysis was IBM SPSS (Statistical Package of Social Sciences). As the tool reads numerical data only, data coding was done. Depending on the scale of the choices available for a question, scoring was done to aid in analysis. Once the data was coded, it was put through the software, and data tables were created.

Overall, the demographic of the present study generally consisted of women weavers between the ages of 31-60.

Stress Assessment Scale was unable to provide credible data as a strong middle category bias was observed upon further analysis.

In an attempt to streamline the causes of stress among the population, a list of 17 body parts was provided to people who were asked to identify which parts were causing pain and stress for them. A large number of people i.e. 243 people chose waist. Other frequently selected body parts included knee (189), Eye (185), Foot (170), Neck (167) and Hand (164). Among the various stress inducing activities mentioned, 222 people (81%) chose financial problems. Emotion of feeling tired saw most responses as the emotion that they thought caused stress (192 people (70.1%)).

In terms of awareness about mental health, the respondents showed a positive attitude towards all questions. Generally, people believed that mental health is just as important as physical health, they had themselves or heard of someone who had availed mental health services and were open to availing services actively. A vast majority wanted the information related to mental health and services to be disseminated through smartphones and YouTube (264 people chose mobile and 174 people chose YouTube). Additionally, more people preferred to avail the services in groups instead of individually.

When asked to identify parts that had caused them trouble in the last 12 months (from a list of 11 body parts) hips (204 people), neck (176 people), upper back (150 people) and knees (185 people) were the most extensively mentioned. 73.2% people reported that the severity of the body pain was felt so much in the past 12 months, that they were unable to work normally. 51.8% of people had been checked by a doctor in the last 12 months.

Skill development level also saw a median-centred response rate.

Thus, the interpretation of data gave some key insights. The data suggests that financial difficulties, body pain, and feelings of tiredness are significant stressors for the weavers. There is a clear need for skill development programs to enhance the weavers' capabilities and improve their overall living conditions. Similarly, progress has to be made in areas of mental and physical health of the weavers so as to increase their overall quality of life.

So, greater attention was given to address these problems through creation of relevant deliverables and manuals.
(for full data analysis with all tables, refer to the link below: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C7i2Aoz3cBIMMYHHYRwDS0aHM0iJmWDv/view?usp=sharing)

Deliverables:

Based on the data analysis, two key areas were identified for the purpose of the present study i.e. Skill development and Health. Health was further divided into two parts:

• Physical Health with focus on Musculoskeletal Disorders (MSDs) and body pain
• Mental Health Kit containing tools for the weavers to use themselves

Skill Development focused on equipping the weavers with introductory knowledge pertaining to Digital Marketing. A module comprising five sub-modules covering facebook as a medium of marketing, communication, online transactions and delivery. A detailed description of the deliverables is as follows:

Health Module: Quick Exposure Check (QEC) and Mental Health Kit

This module was created to cater to the health-related problems that the weavers are facing. Upon interpretation of data, it was highlighted that a vast majority of participants had issues pertaining to body pain and stress management. The first part includes a Quick Exposure Check (QEC) Assessment worksheet for assessing the level of body pain and the second part includes a Mental Health Tool Kit handbook which includes some basic stress management techniques. The intervention will be conducted by the healthcare providers who will be visiting the site during health camps.

(Link for the Facilitator Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Fy64kSNvMchWlMp6xkxR81gThuJCy2J/view?usp=sharing)

• • Quick Exposure Check (QEC)

  The Quick Exposure Check (QEC) tool is used to assist Occupational Safety and Health (OSH) practitioners in evaluating risks related to work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WMSDs). Its purpose is to serve as an observational tool for assessing workplace factors that can lead to WMSDs, involving both practitioners and workers in the assessment process. By considering physical and psychosocial factors, the QEC aims to support ergonomic interventions in the workplace and provide a comprehensive evaluation of all aspects of a work system, helping prioritise interventions based on exposure levels. The tool used in this study has been adapted from the work of David et al. (2008) to fit the demographic of the present study.

  (link for the QEC assessment worksheet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1akA3FbIKNoLzBYt5T2MKox6WCxB-S_R/view?usp=drive_link
  
  Link for QEC scoring sheet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Chx8gaAz3uqH3aYCRHaAE8wmH0KJRk5/view?usp=drive_link)

• • Mental Health Kit Handbook

  The main objective of this module is to increase an understanding of the importance of mental health among the weavers and then provide them with some easy to use tools that can be used to alleviate mental well-being. The following module will consist of creating a MENTAL HEALTH TOOL KIT which will include several mental health resources that the weavers can use to tackle stress in their daily lives and assess their mental state effectively. The contents of the kit, which will be handed out in the form of a handbook, will include:

  • The Psychological Capital Assessment Scale (Luthans et al., 2007) to help weavers understand their psychological capital level,
  • Mood Journal for understanding emotions and moods,
  • Relaxation techniques for daily use, and
  • Details of accessible mental health providers.

  The overarching aim of this module is then to provide well-rounded aid to the weavers to tackle their health related problems.
  
  (link for the handbook: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3PPwA1biza112rs_V4TDteNKpZdFmEC/view?usp=drive_link)

Skill Development Module: Digital Marketing

The analysis of the data from the survey shows a significant gap in the skill development of the weavers. They scored around the median for each of the subskills, making skill development an essential step in increasing the quality of life of the weavers. Further interpretation points to major lag in marketing and communication skills. The present module aims to introduce the basics of digital marketing and e-communication to facilitate business among the handloom workers in Sualkuchi. A workshop will be organised including 10-15 master weavers and the field administrators. The administrator will be required to visit the field, along with 2-3 co-administrators to organise this training module. It will be a two-day skill development workshop. There are 5 modules in total, namely:

• Introducing digital marketing
• Increasing reach through content creation
• Customer Interaction
• Introducing online transactions
• Delivery systems

A number of activities have also been mentioned that will help participants gain hands-on experience.

(link for the facilitator manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1osci3LCq8vOWGUJFQ2v7rZUSXJGIpqD/view?usp=drive_link

Link for the presentation: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b9aeogXrTJpTX14QUGqkMmsiFWhD2S5m/view?usp=drive_link

Link for the booklet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1De6_Sc5uwTL5lnCiHx_DGHGDTPiOoIdm/view?usp=drive_link)

In addition to the workshop, a handbook will also be given to the weavers which will instruct them about the basics of YouTube. It has been mainly designed to introduce YouTube as a platform for publicity which can translate into better reach and interaction with larger markets. The handbook thus contains screenshots and simple explanations to the workings of creating and operating a YouTube channel.

(link for the booklet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SUUZlpz_MNAPw8oHPMw4gbInQ3stp_p6/view?usp=drive_link)

The overall aim of the entire module is then to simply enhance the reach and digital knowledge of the weavers that can ultimately translate into better financial position and less stress.

Future directions:

The community of women weavers in Assam contains the largest number of women weavers. This closely knit society’s livelihood and survival depends on weaving which is a skill that has been generationally passed down. For the purpose of a long-term intervention that can prove to be a consistent and sustainable approach towards financial stability, we are proposing the government to include Muga silk in their One District One product initiative under Make in India policy. Since, only the state government can approach the central government to make changes in their ODOP list, we are reaching out to Handloom Textile and Sericulture, Directorate of Handloom Textiles, Government of Assam.

As concluded by the data analysis, financial issues are the biggest source of stress for women weavers which can be addressed by the inclusion of Muga silk in the ODOP list, since the ODOP initiative by the government takes in the responsibility of “product development,” “sales improvement” and “awareness.” Additionally, the proposal also mentions some areas and ideas on how all three aspects can be addressed in accordance with our women weavers and their requirements.

The success of this proposal does not only include economic benefits but also social benefits. The strength of the handloom sector lies in its capacity to create innovative designs that the power loom sector cannot match. Therefore, handloom is a part of India's heritage and symbolises the diversity and richness of the nation as well as the artistry of its weavers. Our legacy includes the handloom industry, which must be preserved. The product's standardisation and public awareness-raising efforts, facilitated by carnivals and internet platforms, can greatly increase product demand and ease the weavers' everyday financial strain. It is noteworthy that, despite the industry's ability to challenge powerlooms, government assistance must also reach out to the workforce in this industry, since they are in dire need of personal economic development. The survival of the art form will be ensured by the weaver's economic prosperity and the subsequent generations' exposure to it. It's critical to place Assam's handloom industry in a cycle whereby weavers experience a surge in their financial situation, which facilitates their ability to acquire raw materials and, ultimately, boosts their output. This steadiness can improve the community's financial situation, which will subsequently aid in the nation's development.

In addition, we are also seeking a partnership between IIT-Delhi and the Socio Educational Welfare Association (SEWA), a well-established NGO, to leverage their proven services for the benefit of the women weavers in Sualkuchi. SEWA's extensive experience in community mobilisation, mental health services, skill training, and sustainable livelihood initiatives has a strong track record of success. By integrating SEWA's well-established services, we aim to provide comprehensive support that addresses not only the financial but also the mental and physical well being of the weavers. SEWA’s interventions will empower the women to improve their economic stability, enhance their skills, and preserve the cultural heritage of Assam’s handloom sector, ensuring long-term, sustainable growth for the community.

(Link for the Make In India Proposal: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gio0y86t0DTXUjTg1qAUBFCTL4O9lpX/view?usp=drive_link

Link for the SEWA Proposal: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BFncT6CPWwakSGGILOCQh0yjPRxYKfQ0/view?usp=drive_link)

Conclusion:

This comprehensive study on the challenges faced by female handloom weavers in Sualkuchi, Assam, has shed light on the critical issues they encounter in their daily lives. Through a detailed survey of 274 weavers, the research has uncovered significant problems related to financial struggles, physical health, and skill development needs.

The findings reveal that the weavers face immense stress due to financial instability, with 81% citing financial problems as a major cause of stress. Additionally, the study identified widespread musculoskeletal disorders, with the waist, knees, eyes, feet, neck, and hands being the most affected body parts. 73.2% of the weavers reported that the severity of their body pain was so high in the past 12 months that they were unable to work normally.

To address these challenges, the study proposes several targeted interventions. These include a Health Module aimed at improving both physical and mental well-being, incorporating a Quick Exposure Check (QEC) to assess musculoskeletal risks and a Mental Health Kit Handbook to provide stress management tools. A Skill Development Module is also recommended to enhance the weavers' digital marketing skills, empowering them to thrive in an increasingly digital economy.

Furthermore, the study suggests incorporating Muga silk into the One District One Product (ODOP) initiative to ensure long-term financial security for the weavers. This inclusion would help elevate the status of Muga silk on both national and international platforms, fostering sustained economic growth for the region's handloom sector.

The integration of the SEWA model is also proposed to empower weavers through community based approaches, enabling them to effectively manage financial and health challenges while also advancing their skills. By combining health and skill development strategies with initiatives like ODOP and empowerment models such as SEWA, this study lays the groundwork for future efforts to improve the quality of life for the weavers of Sualkuchi.

In conclusion, this research highlights the urgent need for comprehensive interventions to address the multifaceted challenges faced by female handloom weavers in Sualkuchi. By prioritising their health, financial stability, and skill development, we can ensure the sustainability of the handloom industry in Assam and uplift the lives of these vital yet vulnerable artisans.

(Link for the final presentation: https://www.canva.com/design/DAGNjGlQZRs/_7LnmaqCnWZsnXs6CDk2CA/edit?utm_content=DAGNjGlQZRs&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link2&utm_source=sharebutton)

References: